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Barbacoa, let it be said, is NOT barbeque. It's denser and meatier, with a different kind of smokiness and an emphasis on spice over sweetness. It has ground chile paste where barbeque has hickory, dark gamey goat where barbeque has beef. The meat peels off the bone and dissolves in your mouth, piqued by a sip of mezcal with lime and mellowed by smooth black bean paste.